Bremont DH-88 Chronometer
Brand new from Bremont is their celebratory piece that pays homage to
the famed Havilland DH-88 comet, an aircraft that won the race from
England to Australia in 1934. A feat that, at the time, was
record-breaking and downright phenomenal. With styling that really pays
tribute to the dirty ‘30s, the watch is a play on colourful aesthetics
and functional dial design. It has similarities with that of a cockpit
cluster, and when you look at it from afar the contrast between the
panda-design sub-dials, the matte black dial and the stainless steel or
18k rose gold case looks wonderful. The 43mm case though won’t be for
everyone, but in the sense of functional execution I think its spot on.
Powered by the BE-54AE automatic caliber containing 25 jewels, the watch
is sure to entertain for about 42-hours. As I mentioned, the DH-88 is
available in either a stainless steel or 18k rose gold case, of which I
would likely choose the steel version. It’s a brilliant little piece of
machinery that combines the best of both worlds: vintage styling with
modern mechanics.
Check it out
Breitling Avenger II Seawolf Blacksteel
Now if you’re an avid reader of the Wind Up articles, then you’ll
realise that I have been writing a lot about Breitling. But, if you
follow me on Instagram (@haulogerie), you’ll also notice that I rarely,
if ever, post anything related to Breitling. My personal thoughts on
them are in the domain of: yes, they’re interesting; but no, I wouldn’t
purchase one. That’s not to say they’re crappy watches, they’re not. But
they’re not something that I would consider an option for me
personally. But these articles are for you, and that’s why I enjoy
covering Breitling and giving you my honest opinion about them. Just
because I see them in a certain light, doesn’t mean that you should. So
anyway, here is the Avenger II Seawolf Blacksteel, one hard-looking
motherf$%&er that is begging you to take it on an adventure. From
the bright Cobra yellow dial, to the darkness of the Blacksteel case,
expect this beast to follow you to the depths of hell and back. And by
hell, I mean the deepest oceans. And by deep, I mean 3000m deep. Yep,
deep as hell. From an aesthetic standpoint, the Avenger II is polarizing
yet I can see its appeal. Its massive without being overtly
“in-your-face”, and while it lacks any really “zing”, it will certainly
catch the attention of anyone stupid enough to stand in its way. Add to
that a COSC certified Breitling Caliber 17 that will function no matter
what torment you put it through, this tank will be reliable and indeed
inspiring.
Check it out
Frédérique Constant Runabout Limited Edition
New from one of my favourite “affordable” brands, Frédérique Constant
have released the very beautiful Runabout Limited Edition, available in
either stainless steel or rose-gold plated stainless steel. Invariably,
I’d opt towards the stainless steel option. I feel that the SS carries
with it more opportunity to be worn, while the rose-gold variant lacks
that wearability (it’s a word now, dammit!) factor that unfortunately is
all too common with many rose gold watches. Both however, feature
similar dial textures and the same dial layout, bar the differences in
dial colours. The stainless steel has an off white dial, while the
rose-gold uses a chocolatey-brown. Like I said, it’s a solid all
rounder, and if you add a NATO strap to the stainless steel Runabout,
then you really have a completely different watch in your collection. I
love pieces like these where a simple strap change can alter the entire
purpose of the piece, more often than not for the better too. Adding the
date-window at 6 o’clock further emphasizes its functionality, and for
that I applaud FC. Each piece is powered by the solidly reliable ETA
2824 which has been slightly modified by FC (to now be called the
FC-303). Priced well under $5,000AUD, it’s a solid and inexpensive way
to buy into the “limited edition” phenomena that seems to be gripping
the horological community.
Check it out
Ochs Und Junior Perpetual Calendar
From a brand that very little people really know about comes a
perpetual calendar that is truly unique and well worth your attention.
Ochs Und Junior create simple looking timepieces that are well defined,
that have clear intentions and are just about as distinctive looking as
can be. Unapologetically different, their watches point to the future of
what watchmaking could look like over the next decade or so, and their
vision is something to be really excited about. Now the mechanics of the
watch are intriguing, and are far beyond my expertise, so if you’re
really interested in how it works then head on over to Hodinkee
where you’ll be able to read a very well written article about its
inner workings. As far as aesthetics goes, its quite difficult for me to
dissect Ochs Und Junior’s QP, simply for the fact that it is completely
customizable. The would-be-purchaser has the option of an enormous
amount of colours to choose from, with a seemingly infinite amount of
combinations. Luckily though, the experts at Ochs Und Junior are more
than willing to add their two-cents and help you choose a suitable
colour scheme. Beyond the obscurity of the dial, the watch seems to sit
fairly large, and with a high profile you’d struggle to hide it under a
shirt cuff. But this is a watch that wants to be seen, and be it as it
may when you’re spending well over $20,000AUD to be different, then
you’d want the world to know it.
Check it out
HYT H1 Full Gold
What o you get when you add gold to a watch that really doesn’t need
anymore pizzazz? Well you get the HYT H1 in solid gold, that’s what.
Okay, so that was a bit lame and sounded better in my head than when I
said it out loud, but I’ll just leave that where it is and move on to
the watch. Hydromechanics is the game here, and HYT are without question
the kings of this domain. Not the most legible of dials, and certainly
something to consider before parting with over 6-figures of your
hard-earned cash, but without doubt a very intriguing proposition.
Beyond the dial’s complexities, the nature of the piece in general is
really a very unnecessarily complicated take on a relatively simple
task: telling the time. But that’s not a dig at HYT, its an ode to the
entire watchmaking world. We love complicated watches. Watches that push
the boundaries of telling the time. Whether it be to more accurately
present the time, present the time in various ways or find new and
exciting ways to tell the time, we love the nature of complicating the
simple. This is less of an analysis than it is an applause. I truly
enjoy what HYT represent and how they present themselves to the world in
their watches. Neither traditional nor conservative, HYT purely as a
product creating institution are highly adventurous and not confined to
the traditions of such an old market, but as an outlet of passion are,
without doubt, incomparable.
Check it out
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Limited Edition “Boutique Milano”
I have a sort of love-hate relationship with IWC. Some of their
watches I despise, while others I highly enjoy. Some ruffle my feathers,
while others warm my heart. The Portugieser is one of those iconic and
infamous collections that you can’t not love. From the simple
Chronograph to the incredible Perpetual Calendar, the Portugieser’s
identity is well defined and highly visible to all. The Chronograph
Rattrapante “Boutique Milano” Limited Edition is a play between
incredible mechanics and beautiful aesthetics. The combination between
the blue dial (of which a variety of different shades can be seen,
depending on the light its exposed to), the 18k red gold case and the
matching hands, hour numerals and minute markers, is stupidly gorgeous.
It’s the kind of watch you’d buy even if it were Quartz. But thank God
it isn’t. The beating heart at the centre of this masterpiece is the IWC
Calibre 76240 with an in-house rattrapante module. The 76420 is
hand-wound, but is unfortunately hidden away behind a bulk-door
equivalent caseback. Why, oh why would you do this, IWC? Everything was
going so damn well. The dial, the case, the movement: perfect. And then
you decide to hide the movement. But, be it as it may, you can’t have
your cake and eat it too, and in the world of watches there’s always
going to be something that gets under your skin. Priced at over
$20,000AUD, it’s a wonderful piece and something that I’m sure you’ll
love just as much as I do. If you can get over the caseback.
Check it out
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatic
Introduced in 2015, the Saxonia Automatic is soon to be offered with a
beautiful Terra-Brown dial, in either pink gold or white gold cases.
Proportionally perfect, the Saxonia Automatic is one of the finest dress
watches the world has ever seen. And to think that it comes from a
German manufacturer, rather than from a Swiss powerhouse. The
Terra-Brown dial looks superb on the pink gold case, but looks slightly
odd as the backdrop for the white gold. Its because of that I think
Lange will have a bit of a hit-and-miss with this line. The hit: pink
gold. The miss: obviously the white gold. But hey, that’s just my
opinion and I’ve been wrong before. Let’s focus then, on the pink gold
variant. Lange have gone to great lengths to make sure that this piece
fits their mission statement perfectly. Everything from the textured
Terra-Brown dial, to the dauphine hands, to the applied pink gold
indices and the proportions of the seconds sub-dial. Everything is
flawless. The distinction between the lugs, the bezel, the case and the
crown are faultless. The contrast between the brown and the pink gold,
again sublime. Nothing is out of place, and moreover nothing can deter
from a perfect aesthetic. Turn the piece over and, while yes it is an
automatic, it is still beautifully presented and in-keeping with the
overall theme of the watch. Lange have opted to continue using the
L086.1 automatic caliber, and it surely is one of the most beautiful
automatic calibers in the game. Typical perfection from Lange, as per
usual.
Check it out
Manufacture Royale 1770 Haute Voltige Dual Time-Zone
Its loud. Its in your face. And its just another reason why I think
the watchmaking independents deserve more from the market. The
Manufacture Royale 1770 Haute Voltige Dual Time-Zone is one of those
pieces that really wakes up your inner beast. The beast that wants to
revolt and cause anarchy. The beast that knows it really isn’t content
despite your best efforts to subdue it. It’s the kind of watch that
really portrays just how much can be done with watchmaking. Even someone
whose interest in watches draws similarities with watching grass grow
would take a second look at this piece. Everything is exposed, and in
this case that’s perfect. From the massive balance-wheel, to the pallet
form and gears, its all on show. The dual-time sub-dial is placed
perfectly and plays the balancing act between the balance-wheel and the
rest of the dial harmoniously. The main hour and minute hands are
sculptured flawlessly, and the deep blue of the dial against the mirror
polish of the case is beautiful. Turn the piece over and you’ll be able
to see the in-house automatic caliber MR07 with its Geneva stripes,
polished beveled edges and skeletonized rotor doing its thing. Inscribed
on the rotor are the words “Enlightened Horology”, and I truly feel as
though that’s just what this piece represents. Available with either a
blue or black dial, if given the opportunity I highly advise dispensing
with your absurd amount of money and investing in one of these marvels.
Check it out
Arnold & Son Nebula
I feel almost always inclined to look at Arnold & Son. Their
brand is different, against the grain and truly unique. Their
contemporary styling in a very conservative world speaks to my youth,
and as such I’d be remiss to not speak about their pieces. Immature as
it may sound, their watches represent the kind of “in-your-face”
qualities that I regularly look for in a timepiece. Be that as it may,
and similar to that of the Haute Voltige I just spoke about, their
watches don’t neglect the fundamental qualities that a solid timepiece
requires to be classified as
haute. The Nebula, available in
either stainless steel or red gold, looks and carries with it qualities
not dissimilar to that of an actual cosmic nebula. Amongst the chaos
you’ll be able to see some extremely high levels of movement finishing
and refinement. And while the in-house Arnold & Son caliber
A&S5101 is on full display on the dial, turning the piece over won’t
disappoint. The same levels of attention and care have been paid in
full to the caseback, where the stainless steel version has a
skeletonized black ADLC base plate and NAC bridges. This quality of
finishing is wonderful to see, and as I mentioned before is highly
modern and as such really warrants the attention of a younger section of
the market. Whether that was what Arnold & Son intended with this
piece, I’m not entirely certain, but regardless of your age I’m sure the
Nebula does wonders for your fascination of horology. A visceral
spectacle that is by far one of the most impressive from Arnold &
Son.vedere di piu
orologi rolex e
replica Chopard Imperiale
